Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Thoughts & Reflections on Our Trip




I know some of you have enjoyed reading about what we have been doing all across Europe and Egypt, but some of you just want to know our thoughts and feelings about our "trip of a lifetime". Well, it has truly been a trip of a lifetime as we will most likely (never say never) not do something like this again.

That said, we did compile a list of European cities/regions we would love to revisit. A city/region made it on this list if there were more sites we wanted to tour but didn't have time, if it was an area we would love to vacation in, or if we simply loved the city.

So here is the list:
-Madrid
-London
-Budapest
-Rhine Riviera
-Cinque Terre
-Venice
-Rome

Egypt obviously has a list all on its own. We of course want to come back, bring friends, and maybe one day kids. Ha, no one get too excited.

Moving right along, we are constantly amazed by all we have seen - from the Eiffel Tower to Big Ben, the London Eye, the Colosseum, and the Pyramids. We have toured the Anne Frank House and Corrie Ten Boom's hiding place. We have seen the Schonnbrun, the Hopsburg Palace, Versailles, and the Vatican. In terms of churches, we have walked through the most beautiful in Sagrada Familia, Notre Dame, St. Peter's Basilica, and the Duomo. We saw the Mona Lisa, David, and the Sistine Chapel.

Beyond sites, we have bathed with Hungarians in their Roman, thermal baths. We sat and played cards with Hannah's parents in the same pub C.S. Lewis & Tolkien frequented. We took a beautiful boat ride through the castles seated on the Rhine River. Oktoberfest. We attended an Italian soccer game, an opera in Vienna, and a chateau wine-tasting in the Alps of Switzerland. The food and drinks throughout Europe never failed to impress and surprise us, whether that was good or bad (ehem, bacon fat roast in Hungary). One of my favorites - we have enjoyed a sailboat ride on the Nile. All the different cultures are rich with the arts, their history, and their languages. We enjoyed so much of it!

While it was amazing, it was not perfect. We realized there are so many comforts of home that we daily take for granted. Here are some things we learned a new appreciation for...

-Sitting on a couch (hotel beds get very old)
-Sleeping in a real queen bed, not 2 twins pushed together
-Maps & Street Signs
-Understanding the language
-Cooking your own dinner
-Watching English TV (other than CNN, which can be found everywhere)
-The lack of tourists in everyday life
-Clean socks
-Dryers...so clothes shrink back to original size instead of continually stretching further and further
-Ice cubes (didn't realize ice was so American)
-Confidence that you won't be pick-pocketed at every distraction
-Eating at restaurants and NOT paying the extra, unannounced cover charge
-Not having all your toiletries in hand when you go to shower
-Knowing which side of the sidewalk is acceptable to walk down
-Availability of health care and understanding it
-Ordering water and not being surprised with a mouthful of carbonation
-Traffic laws and drivers abiding by them, lanes, and seat belts
-Sidewalks that are pedestrian-friendly
-Not having people always in your face trying to sell you some gimmick
-Cars that don't constantly honk their horns
-Having friends & family nearby, because you all keep us sane!

Was the trip worth it? Jobless and homeless we may be, but yes it was definitely worthwhile. Reconnecting with old friends and making new ones, worshipping the same God across all sorts of borders, and having our eyes opened to a much bigger world than we normally encounter are only a few things that come to mind. We were reminded daily of our roles in leading and following, when and how to do it...and why we are so bad at it. We learned and will relearn to repent and forgive each other for all our annoying faults, to accept each other for the way we are, and to encourage each other toward Christ - because He is the best thing for us individually and together.

Most importantly, with the absence of friends and family, we realized on another level that we cannot complete each other. Our joy and unity come from the grace we receive everyday from Jesus. As long as He is the center and we are looking to the Holy Spirit to change us, God will grow us closer to Himself and into a deeper relationship with each other.

Monday, November 12, 2012

Egypt (Part 2) - Hope to See You Again Soon!




Since the past few days had been busy and a tad stressful, we decided to slow down a bit on Monday. A driver picked us up and drove us through Moqattam, one of Cairo's largest garbage villages. It is hard to describe the poverty there, but imagine a village constructed and revolving on garbage and you will have a little bit of a picture in mind. Some streets can be up to your knees in garbage, the flies are out in full force, and you have to consciously think not to react to the smells. But the kids are running at our car yelling, "what's your name" and "welcome to Egypt", and that is precious to me.

After one of the saddest drives you can make in Cairo, we come up to my favorite site - the cave church/churches! Three Coptic churches have been carved out of caves. The story is actually really amazing...it is believed that at one time the mountain was physically moved by the faith of a saint. Less than fifty years ago, the caves were discovered but full of rocks and debris and impossible to use. The Christians in the garbage village were not allowed to build a church for themselves. But at the end of every day in Ramadan (a Muslim, fasting holiday month), a cannon goes off to signal when it is time to feast. When this cannon went off, the Christians set off explosives in the caves. Then they cleared out the debris all night and day, set more explosives to go off and repeated the process until Ramadan was over and the churches were built. They went undetected throughout the building process and now have wonderful churches for worship.

The largest cave church can seat up to 5,000 so they hold church services, conferences, and events here! There are beautiful carvings, etched into the rock ceilings and walls, of Bible stories and verses. We really enjoyed looking at all the illustrations and reading about the area. You also get a great view of Cairo!

That night we ate dinner with Amy and Caleb at Chili's. I must say that it is much better food in Cairo than in the States! After dinner, we went to a wonderful cafe that overlooks the Nile, had some of the most delicious lemon juice and were able to relax together.

Tuesday we took a last-minute trip to Ain Sokhna (which is a beach on the Suez Canal/Red Sea). I grew up going to this beach, mostly for day trips. We decided to spoil ourselves a bit and stay the night. It was beautiful weather, the wind was blowing, Nick had shade and I had sun - perfect combo for the beach! We enjoyed huge buffet dinners and breakfasts, full of Egyptian food. That night also happened to be Election Day in the States, so we were excited to have CNN and be able to follow all that was going on with that. We were hoping to stay up late enough to see the result, but we actually woke up around 9 the next morning to President Obama's celebratory speech - so that was fun for us to experience live even on this side of the ocean.

Wednesday night when we got back from the beach we did some food shopping for all my favorite Egyptian snacks - borios (aka Egyptian Oreos), ketchup flavored chips, apple fanta, and other deliciousness.

Thursday morning we started with shopping on Road 9 - the main street, full of cafes and shops. I was so tempted to buy everything but I held back, trying to think through what we actually wanted to move to Seattle and what just looked cool in the store. After shopping, we had a wonderful lunch with a family friend and her two boys. It was so fun to spend time with them, catching up on all their news and hearing about life in Cairo post-revolution. It was sad to hear that Morsi has re-allowed girls to be married at 9 years old and that other shari'a laws are fighting to be established, but encouraging to hear how we must be praying for him and his leadership just as we should be doing for President Obama. I don't normally compare the two presidents, but interesting to think of it from a different perspective...


Friday was the day that we had been waiting for/dreading...going to the pyramids! Let me explain- the pyramids themselves are amazing. They are huge and you can literally climb on them and inside of them (more on that later). But, it has become a huge tourist trap. People hound you the entire time to ride their horses and camels, buy their souvenirs, and show them your tickets even though they don't work at the pyramids. Probably the most annoying aspect of the day was people kept taking pictures/videos of us or asking us to be in pictures with them. We would always refuse and walk away. We didn't understand if they were so surprised to see foreigners that they wanted pictures or what, but it made the day less fun.

However, so much of the experience was great! We got to the pyramids very early in the day (around 8:30 am) so a lot of the annoying people hadn't arrived yet. We were able to mostly walk around the three pyramids in peace and just be amazed by them. Questions such as where did all the blocks come from and how did they stack them so high and why in this location came into our heads. One highlight of the day was actually going into the Great Pyramid! You go in and then can go up a very narrow passage for about 200 feet (sort of a guess) and it is the only way in or out. You are crouched over the entire time so your legs are really feeling it. I don't know if these passages were used in making the pyramids, but if they were then I pity the men who built the pyramids. Either way, I pity the men who built the pyramids. That would be a pretty bad job, but in the end they made a pretty amazing wonder. Since this is only one way in and out, you have to share the very narrow passage so you are scrunched up against the wall while climbing up/down a narrow passage crouched over. You are very happy to get outside again.

After going into the pyramid, we walked down the road and saw the Sphinx. We don't know how the nose fell off, but if you do feel free to leave a comment. Hannah's convinced it fell off during the movie "Aladdin." But it was fun to see.

Our final adventure after seeing the Sphinx was finding a camel to ride. All around us people were trying to get us to ride their camels, but we wanted to try and find someone who looked trustworthy. We had heard horrific camel-riding experiences where they put you on the camel for a certain price and take you out into the desert far enough that you can't walk back and then demand more money. We weren't going to fall for this trick. So eventually we found our camel and camel-driver and we were off. About half way through he offered to take pictures of us...what a nice guy! Then, about five minutes later, he doubled the price and says the original one was per person! Hannah yells at him in Arabic to put us down and says no way Jose! He lets Hannah off but then the camel stands up quickly and I'm back up high. Hannah is arguing with the guy and I'm trying to argue from the camel. Finally, he lets me down and says he wants 20 pounds per picture plus extra then he initially said. We refuse it but give him a little extra for the pictures, even though we shouldn't have. He continued to walk after us for a few minutes, yelling at us for more money but we just kept walking. Just another day riding camels!

Friday evening we went to MCC, the community church, and then helped Amy make signs for the Christmas Bazaar the next day. Saturday morning we were able to spend some time with old friends from Charlotte who now live in Alexandria. It was a really fun, last-minute surprise to see them for breakfast. That afternoon, we went to the Christmas Bazaar and did some shopping. All the vendors had handmade, great quality items and the proceeds went to tons of Egyptian charities...so it made shopping even more fun! Afterwards, we met Amina, one of my friends from high school, for lunch at Lucille's. It was SO amazing to see her again and eat in one of our old spots. We caught up on each other's news for the last seven years...it was long overdue.

Sunday we spent more time walking in and out of bedouin shops and then we went to CAC, my old high school. It took a bit of convincing the guard, but we eventually got inside the campus to get my alumni ID. I showed Nick the pool I life guarded at, the gym, auditorium, and classrooms. So much has changed but the high school has stayed more or less the same, so that was nice to see. We talked with one of my old teachers awhile, heard how the revolution affected the school, and other things going on with CAC. It was so wonderful to see a familiar face!

After our campus tour, we picked up a BBQ chicken pizza from Dominoes (my personal favorite) and grabbed a taxi to the Nile. We enjoyed one of the most beautiful felucca (sailboat on the Nile) rides I have ever been on - the sunset was colorful and crisp, not fogged out by the pollution. The breeze was cool and the wind was blowing so we were able to move pretty fast. So wonderful!

Today (Monday), we started with some last-minute shopping! Then we visited with some more family friends. I used to babysit their son, Danny, but now he is 13 - so that is crazy to see how time flies. It was great to catch up on their news, hear the thoughts on Egypt, and how their family is adjusting. Then we ended our day with a delicious Lebanese meal with Amina and her boyfriend, Tamer. It was fun to hang out all four of us, hear how they started dating, and life for them now!

We said goodbye to Amy and Caleb, Egypt and all of it's chaos, and now we are at the airport and headed home...though I must say that the guard is getting really annoying and not letting us get to the check-in desk for whatever new security measures they have running. Also, it seems that our flight doesn't depart until 3:10 AM, 2 hours later than we expected...hopefully that is not a sign of things to come on this long travel day!

Tuesday, November 6, 2012

Egypt (Part 1) - There's No Place Like Home...or Egypt!




Well, I can definitely say there is no place I have been quite like Cairo. From the moment we walked out of the airport, got in our driver's car, and then realized we were stuck because a truck parked behind us and didn't leave his car in neutral so we could move it...and this was normal...I knew this was a new experience for me. As we sat in the car I laughed at the cars all around us laying on their horns, while Hannah described it as "music to her ears." We were very thankful for an easy and uneventful travel day getting to Cairo and Amy's house, Hannah's old youth pastor. We arrived and spent the rest of the night catching up with her. It was great hearing from her about not only the changes in her life, but the changes in Cairo since the revolution.

Our first full day here we took some time and walked around Hannah's old neighborhood. I got to see CAC (where Hannah went to high school), two different apartment buildings she lived in, Kimo (the famous grocery store I've heard so much about), and many other stores that had memories for her! It was a lot of fun being in Maadi with her. After that, we met up with some family friends. It was great to meet so many people who I've heard about and Hannah loved catching up with people whom she hadn't seen in 6 or more years. It's crazy how fast times goes by. After our time with friends, we went to MCC, the church Hannah went to when she lived in Maadi. Again, it was amazing seeing a place that I've been hearing about for years. We loved worshipping with people from so many different cultures in Hannah's old home church.

Saturday was a very full day! We started the day by walking part of Road 9. Road 9 is a very popular road is Maadi that has a lot of cafes, shops and restaurants that Hannah used to go to. It is sort of like a Main Street. After walking down that for awhile, we hopped in a taxi and attempted to communicate that we wanted to go to The Citadel (a huge mosque in Cairo that is open to tourists). Long story short, after way too long of a taxi ride and going in a few circles and him asking for directions multiple times and Hannah repeating herself over and over again, we finallllly got there!

Asking for directions here is another unique experience. Here is a little picture - we are speeding down a 3-lane bridge with 5 lanes of cars flying down around us. Our taxi driver pulls alongside another car, blows his horn, and motions for the car to come closer. About when the sideview mirrors are an inch apart, our driver yells to the other driver and asks what/where is The Citadel. The other driver gives directions in the quickest possible sentence before the cars behind him rear-end him or start blowing horns so loud that the two drivers can't even hear each other.

The Citadel was pretty cool though, the only mosque I will go in so definitely worth the trouble. The building was really old but the inside was really beautiful. After being photographed and video-ed by random locals, we left the inside of the mosque (I guess with tourism struggling they don't see many foreigners anymore). From The Citadel, we also got an amazing view of the city...well, a grayish view of the city. If it hadn't been for the pollution, it would have been an amazing view.



After The Citadel, we went to Khan el Khalili, a huge marketplace. We got one of Hannah's favorite Egyptian meals, Egyptian pancakes or "fetir." They were sweet so Hannah definitely liked them more than I did. After lunch, we walked around the marketplace for a few hours. Everyone wanted us to come in their shops. We would hear, "Special price for you", or "Just give me a chance to sell you something", or "Now it's my turn". Our favorite was "I want to start my business well with you today." We heard that up until about 7 PM. I was so thankful that Hannah spoke Arabic because she was able to negotiate prices and that gave us much more credibility. The marketplace definitely got busier as the day got later. And shop owners would remember us (especially Hannah because there aren't many blonde girls walking around Cairo) and give us a very hard time about seeing us walk by multiple times throughout the day without buying something.

One story we need to tell is about trying to find an ATM. We got directions from one of the street vendors for the nearest ATM - he wanted to exchange money for us but we told him that we needed a machine because we had a card. So we get to the ATM and three guys are sitting in front of it and they say it's broken, but there is one down just around the corner. We say ok and go down around the corner, in search of another. While there is an ATM, it is also broken. Bummer, we wanted to pull out more money to buy more things in the market...that's a good thing, right? So we are walking away from the ATM and we see this young guy who earlier tried to sell us perfume bottles for 300 LE (as a side note, this is an outrageous price and by the time we walked away, he was all the way down to 35 LE). We didn't buy them the first time so he thought we were back to buy them. We told him our problem and he brought us back to the other "broken" ATM. One of the guys who was sitting in front of the ATM before comes up to us and says that it is working now. Hannah starts laughing (because things don't get fixed in Cairo) and says, "oh NOW it's working". A man is using the ATM and while I watch him pull out money, he turns around and tells me that the ATM is broken. I say ok and just look at him. He repeats himself but I just watched it work so I want to try myself. I guess I won the staring contest because eventually they said I could try and see if it works for me. All of the sellers around us were giving us a hard time because they knew we had money so we got out of there and went shopping elsewhere with our new money! It was a fun experience.

Sunday we headed downtown to Tahrir Square. This is where the majority of the fighting took place during the revolution. During the revolution, many protestors were throwing rocks. We learnt that people were tearing up the streets and sidewalks barehanded and using that as ammunition. Some sidewalks are still torn up because protests are still occurring.

We first went to Cairo Museum. This is a very cool and extremely unorganized museum. We saw a ton of mummies, sarcophagi, statues of Egyptian gods and pharaohs, jewelry, broken pots and many other ancient artifacts. We also saw many of King Tut's personal belongings. During the revolution, the museum was looted so it was nice to see that a lot of important pieces still remain in the museum because Egyptians came to protect the museum against people trying to steal artifacts. When we left the museum, we walked out the exit to a burnt building. I am pretty sure that this was the police headquarters. The walls are made out of cement so the fire had to go be started on each floor individually. Pictures will be posted later because they are on Hannah's camera. But it was crazy to see such a real result of the revolution.



After the museum, we headed toward Felfela - one of Hannah's family's favorite restaurants! We ate delicious food - from chicken, lamb, rice, stuffed grapevine leaves, bread, and dip! We also ordered one of the best lemon juices I have ever had...Hannah has been ordering them everywhere so I finally gave in and skipped the coke. Then we topped it off with rice pudding with ice cream - I wasn't a huge fan of the pudding, but the ice cream was great.

After stuffing ourselves, we walked more around Tahrir Square. We saw lots of burned out cars that had been set on fire during the revolution, an incredible wall full of really well-done graffiti, and other remnants of the revolution everywhere. Unfortunately, Hannah couldn't really take pictures because people are really suspicious of journalists in the area misrepresenting them so most of it will just have to stick in our memory. We wished her parents were there though to translate all the slogans and sentences, so that we could have fully understood it all.

We ended our night by attending an Egyptian church service. When the service began, it was maybe half-full, but people kept filing in even halfway through the sermon. By the end, it was packed with people! It was fun to see such a huge crowd and be in an evangelical church in Egypt. They do love to sing though and don't keep track of time at all. After about two hours, we snuck out a bit early. While it was a long service, we are sure it felt longer because we were trying to focus on the translation. One cool thing about the church is that the lobby was used as a safe haven for the wounded during the revolution. The building itself was one of the only buildings not harmed!

After the service we walked through Shepheard's Hotel, another family favorite of the Kuhn's. We were to full to eat but it was great to see the hotel.

That's enough for now. We'll post again in a few days. Sorry about the lack of interesting pictures...not exactly appropriate to pull out the iPad. There are a few in here of us just enjoying the cafe culture though! We love and miss you all!

P.S. We just got Internet on the iPad so Rome was just posted as well. Don't miss it below!

Roma - The Last Stop in Europe!




We arrived to a wonderful hotel in Rome! The travel day was easy, our rooms were close to the train station, so we decided to walk through the city before dark. We ended up walking forever, all around Rome! Around every corner, there was some amazing building, monument, church, or statue of some sort. We walked through their shopping streets, the busy piazzas, and then to Capitol Hill. From there, we caught our first glimpse of the Colosseum all lit up with floodlights. It was beautiful!

Monday we started our day at the Roman Forum, where all the politics, discussions, and shopping happened in Ancient Rome. We saw where Julius Caesar was burned, after being stabbed to death, temples to gods and goddesses of that time, and where the Senate took place. We saw the Arch of Titus, built by Jewish slaves. Ancient Romans were known for being very accepting of other cultures, but the one thing they required when they conquered a nation was that they worship the Roman gods as well as continuing to worship their own gods. The Jews refused to worship any gods but their one, so they were enslaved by the Romans during that time.



After the Forum, we walked through Palatine Hill. On the hill, we saw Caesar Augustus' house, the Royal Stadium (pictured above), and the huts of Romulus. We also had a great view of the city and the Colosseum! At this point, we had been walking forever and needed a coffee break. So we found a cafe right in front of the Colosseum and enjoyed caffe lattes and tiramisu...it was fantastic!

Feeling rejuvenated, we set out on a night walk across Rome. Starting at Capitol Hill, we walked through piazzas with live music, entertainers, artists. We went to the Pantheon - the marble interior was amazing, the pillars are the largest in Italy, and they were shipped from Egypt! Then we headed toward the Trevi Fountain, filled with tourists making wishes and throwing coins over their left shoulder into the water. We can't imagine how much money Rome makes from this single fountain!


Tuesday started with breakfast at a local bakery. Then we decided it was time to tour the Colosseum! It is far more stunning than what you see in pictures or the movies. Huge, first of all. Seeing such an old structure so in tact amazed us.

After the Colosseum, we took the metro to Vatican City. We toured most of the four-mile-long Vatican museum. The walls, ceilings, everything was so ornate and glamorous. The tour ended in the Sistine Chapel...we couldn't believe how big it was, all the layers, and stories going on at one time. It was pretty overwhelming and we could never haven taken in the whole thing, but very cool to have seen it!


After the Vatican, we went to St. Peter's Basilica (pictured above). This basilica and the Vatican building are what make up the Vatican City. St. Peter's is by far the largest and grandest church in the world! The dome is as tall as a football field is long; it's structure inspired the building of several other domes in churches across the world. Nothing can compare to this church though...our jaws dropped every time we turned our heads. The arches, pillars, decor, Raphael's "Pieta" and other artwork were indescribable.

After some delicious lasagna and cannelloni for lunch, we took the metro back to the Trevi Fountain (pictured below) because I wanted pictures in the daylight. We stopped for ice cream and coffee on the piazza and then spent the next hour or two people-watching. Tourists can be very frustrating, but when you sit back to watch them, they can be highly entertaining as well! We also spent time on the Spanish Steps, a pretty popular piazza for both Italians and tourists. Not sure how many times roses were forced into our hands or how many guys wanted to sell us cheap souvenirs, but it is totally worth it to watch everyone at work and at play!


From the Spanish Steps, we enjoyed probably the most delicious meal out over our entire trip (or close tie to one in Madrid). We finally found chicken parmesan on a menu, so Nick ordered that and I had tortellini. No words will do that meal justice...Italian cooking at its best! Our waiter - also very true to what you would expect in an Italian. He kept bringing us food and drinks, saying that its a special price just for us, or on the house, or a gift because it went well with our drinks. Needless to say, we still paid for everything we consumed...haha! But we did feel very taken care of, and then slightly taken advantage of too. They had delicious food though, so no complaints here.

Wednesday was pretty rainy so we ate breakfast at our hotel's organic cafe. We spent the morning packing, doing some laundry, and skyping with Nick's parents. Then we went on an adventure to find tickets to that night's soccer game - S. S. Lazio vs. Torino! It turned out to be much easier than we expected, though the lady selling us tickets couldn't speak a word of English. We managed though, understanding we had to be back at 5 PM for tickets, to bring our passports, and that umbrellas were allowed into the stadium.

On our way home, we decided to buy one umbrella for €2. Unfortunately, the price really reflected the quality of the umbrella. Not only was it pouring rain, but the wind was blowing strong. At every gush of wind, our umbrella threatened to turn inside out...not at all withstanding the weather.

So at five, we asked the hotel reception if they had any umbrellas for us to use. They handed us one that was definitely from the same street sellers we had bought our own. But we felt like having two faulty umbrellas was better than one. So we walked back through the pouring rain to claim our tickets and head toward the stadium. Not only was my umbrella poor quality, but it was pretty much broken. Every time wind blew, it would either flip inside out or the material would get disconnected from the frame of the umbrella and be blowing around, getting water all over me. When the wind wasn't blowing, the detached material would just drip on me. I had to laugh or I knew I would start crying and our soccer game adventure would quickly come to an end. Nick felt horrible but he was having his own issues with our "new" umbrella (aka holding it together when the wind blew) and avoiding huge puddles. Nick eventually convinced me to trash mine and hope it would stop raining!

Anyways, finally at the stadium a couple hours early, we found an Italian pizzeria and sat down to dry off and enjoy dinner. This restaurant proceeded to be one of our most cultural meals out! We were surrounded by soccer fans, excited about that night's game. The voices were yelling above each other, hands were flying in your stereotypical Italian motions, everyone greeted each other with kisses, and the food and drinks just kept coming. I must add that the pizza was phenomenal...not like the trashy fast food in the States (not to hate on America or anything, Italy just does food right).

The soccer game was the highlight of our time in Rome! We didn't really have a clue as to how everything worked, in terms of security, tickets, and seating. When we walked through the first gate, a woman waved me over for a pat down. Nick followed me, leaving the male security guard who was about to do his. When I explained he had to go back to the man, because females did the pat downs for ladies and males did them for men, the security guards were all laughing at us. We just embraced the funny moment and fumbled our way through the system, happy to provide them with some entertainment.

Nick bought a Lazio scarf, which we were instantly thankful for when we walked into our section. Everyone was decked out in scarves, hats, jackets, and soccer gear. We realized that if this game was going on in the States, everyone would be dressed in their Halloween costume...but not here! As we sat down, Nick decided to mention that we were in the famous section of the stadium - the Curva Nord. Famous for what, you might ask. Famous for their rowdiness, roughness, and sometimes needing to be settled down by tear gas. Oh great. But this game was not one of their notorious rivals, so all went very smoothly. It was a fun section to be in since it felt a lot more like the student section in Williams-Brice! The fans chanted, sang, and clapped the ENTIRE game - they literally never stopped. We were amazed by the energy and how positive it was even when Lazio made mistakes. My favorite part - when Lazio scored, Nick was embraced by at least 2 Italian men! Seeing all the excitement and being welcomed into it was so fun!


Now we are on our flight to Cairo!! Woohoo!! EgyptAir continues to get the award for best airline food...we just had a delicious lunch, topped off with coffee, vanilla cake with coffee icing, and a good movie (or so Nick says).

Can't wait to see you all in a couple weeks!

Sunday, October 28, 2012

Florence - Gelato, Sculptures, & Leather Markets




We were welcomed to Florence by our Florentine grandmother at our hotel. She was an extremely nice elderly lady who rents out six rooms in her home. We weren't able to communicate very much with her, but we felt very welcomed by her!

We arrived a little later in the day so our first day in Florence we weren't able to do very much. We spent some time walking through the San Lorenzo Market. Street vendors lined blocks of streets and pretty much every stall sold some sort of Italian leather product. We had a great time walking through and seeing all of the purses, wallets, belts, jackets, and suitcases all made out of leather.

Next we went and walked around the Duomo Cathedral (pictured above). The Duomo was originally built with a big hole in the roof, awaiting the technology to build a dome because it wasn't around yet. A local architect came up with the solution and the dome was built in 14 years. In our opinion, the outside of the Duomo was much more impressive than the inside.

We started off the next day by walking all the way across the city (it's only about a 20 minute walk) to the Ponte Vecchio. This is Florence's most famous bridge. The bridge is lined with extremely fancy jewelry stores that we could never afford to shop in but it was fun to walk and look.

On our way to the bridge, we saw a Christian Evangelical group singing and then performing a mime/dance on a piazza (we think of Isaiah 53). Just as they got to the part where Jesus was going to be resurrected and clothe the people around Him in white, the police came and shut down the performance. The group seemed to have written permission to perform in the piazza, but the police didn't care. It was really interesting to watch, especially the timing of how it all went down.

Close to the Ponte Vecchio is the Uffizi Gallery. Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure that the Uffizi Gallery has been open as a museum since the late 1500's...that's crazy! The most famous work in the gallery is Botticelli's "Birth of Venus." We also saw works by Leonardo, Raphael, and Michelangelo (all the ninja turtles).

That night we went for a walk and got gelato at one of the best Gelateria's in Italy. We had caffe and tiramisu flavor. It was delicious! It was also really fun seeing Florence light up at night.

Our last day in Florence, we began the day by going to the Centrale Market. Here they sell every part of the cow, make and sell fresh pasta, vegetables, and other groceries. Our senses were going crazy walking around the market. One minute we would be surrounded by whole raw chickens, the next we would be all around greens, and then we would be all around fish! It was fun but we were glad to get out of there.

Next we did what any person visiting Florence has to do and went to see Michelangelo's sculpture of "David." "David" stands 17-feet tall in the Accademia. He was meant to stand on the roof of the Duomo but was moved indoors for his protection. It was amazing how detailed every part of him was, from his fingernails to the veins in his hands and feet. But he definitely doesn't look like a 17 year old in the sculpture.

We ended our time in Firenze with a delicious dinner and one last walk around the city.


Now we are on our last train in Europe (and we are thoroughly enjoying the business class seats we didn't have to pay for)! Pretty crazy that we've been traveling for 8 weeks today. Roma here we come!



Friday, October 26, 2012

The Pellice Valley - Waldensian History & OM Italy




We arrived in Bobbio Pellice with very few expectations. We weren't sure what OM's ministry was in the area, what our housing situation would look like, or what exactly we would be doing. Taking each day in stride, we wound up with a rather packed schedule.

Monday, after unpacking a bit, we took a huge tour of Forterocca - the hotel/retreat center. Forterocca means "strong rock". It began as a vision with older OM missionaries and has developed into a very real ministry. The land they originally bought to make their vision come to life housed an old Fascist army barracks. They thought they could simply renovate the building, but due to construction codes, they had to tear down the army barracks and rebuild. Interesting Italian law - for anything built above ground, you have to build in the same footprint that existed before...meaning, their building had to be the exact same measurements and shape above ground.

The main building is now finished and fully functioning to host church groups, youth groups, arts conferences, sports camps, and more. A few smaller buildings used to exist on the property. They are hoping to turn these into a bigger dining area, fireplace/cozy area, and a cafe where parents can come while their kids are involved in camps or other things. The underground (where they are free to expand) is going to be built into an indoor soccer court, since there are no indoor recreational facilities in the area. It was fun to hear all of their dreams and what they are working towards!

We also learned some facts about Italy:
-Italy has more Muslims than Afghanistan.
-Italy is 0.6% Christian.
-Torino (40 min. from the valley) has the largest Satanic church in the world...they are free to practice as long as they are underground.

On Tuesday, we joined in on their morning team meeting. We heard more about their ministries and other ones going on across the world. We took a walking tour of Bobbio, they town where we were staying, guided by a sweet Canadian lady who has lived there with her husband almost 9 months now. It was fun to hear her enthusiasm for the people, the beautiful area, and the culture! The rest of the day we were hosted for lunch, snacks, dessert, coffee, and dinner with different people. It was a lot to take in - but so great to hear different experiences, histories, and stories from the missionaries there. We also loved the international community being so prevalent in the area. On the OM team alone, they had Holland, South Africa, Scotland, USA, Italy, Canada, Colombia, Germany, and other nationalities represented!



Wednesday we started our day with a Waldensian tour. Four hundred years before the Reformation, Peter Waldo, a rich French-man, purchases a Bible and had it translated. When he read it, he realized the Catholic church was misleading their followers and felt strongly that anyone should be able to read the Bible. Persecuted in France, he walked over the Alps into the Pellice Valley and started telling people about Jesus. He gained followers, but the Pope didn't like this. He didn't like people reading the Bible on their own. So he sent his army to the valley to make Waldo and his people renounce their faith. They refused so many children and families were killed. Eventually the Pope made a decree that they were allowed to live - but only above a certain altitude. This altitude in the Alps was dangerous and fairly unlivable, but if they came below that altitude, they would be killed.

On our Waldensian tour, we saw a cave church where the Waldensians met once a week to worship together. They would come from miles around and about 100-125 people could fit in the cave. There was only one way in and out of the cave, so the people had to have a lot of trust in one another and in God to protect them and keep them safe. At one worship service, someone had tipped off the Pope's army about the location of the cave church. The army snuck up, poured hot oil and fire into the cave, killing everyone present at the service. These were the risks that the Waldensians took daily to worship God.

Next we went to a Waldensian Bible school - what maybe the oldest reformed Bible school. For four months out of the year, the brightest young men of the community would go to Bible school. There were only two or three teachers at these schools and the only book used was the Bible. The young men would memorize entire books of the Bible. While we were walking around the school, Hannah went to stand in the sun because she was cold. All of a sudden, we heard a shriek and up the hill ran Hannah! She had been run at by a HUGE WILD BOAR! Thankfully, Hannah intimidated the boar and the boar took off running into the woods, never to be seen again. We then left the school in a hurry.

We spent lunch with Eliseo and Paula's family. Eliseo is the field leader of OM Italy. It was great to get to know him, his family, spend time in a home, learn more about OM Italy's vision, and learn more about the different ministries.

After lunch we went to an Italian language lesson. The OM team puts a big emphasis on learning Italian. It was a very overwhelming and fun class. We learned vocabulary words starting with A-F. One girl in the class couldn't understand English or Italian, so I could only imagine how difficult the class must have been for her!

We spent the rest of the day with Robert and Lara's family. They are American and have been in Italy for two months. We had such a fun time with them, playing with their girls, and hearing about how they ended up in Italy. They both have a huge heart for the Italian people and it was amazing to hear about.

Now we are in Florence and having a great time! Less than a week until Cairo!

Monday, October 22, 2012

Cinque Terre - A Vacation from Our Vacation




We arrived in Riomaggiore on Saturday to stay for the weekend. Riomaggiore is one of the five towns that make up the Cinque Terre and are part of a national park. All five towns are situated on or between cliffs, overlooking the west coast of Italy. The buildings are all brightly colored, creating an awesome contrast with the dark cliffs that surround them. Focaccia bread also comes from this region, along with tons of basil and pesto. So the food was amazing!

After one of our longest and most stressful travel days, it was perfect to get off the train to the view pictured above. The seagulls were squawking, the water was crashing against the cliffs, and the weather was beautiful (probably around 68-70 degrees all weekend). Needless to say, we were able to put the stress behind us and enjoy our vacation from our vacation.

Saturday we walked all around the town we were staying in. We took a steep walk up to the highest point for a beautiful view. Then we walked down to the harbor to watch the sunset. The beach in our town consisted of huge rocks and boulders in the water, so we picked one out and sat for awhile, enjoying the beauty.

On Sunday, we woke up with the intention of hiking between all five towns, a 7-mile hike. We walked down to the harbor and caught a boat to the furthest town from us - Monterosso. From there, we were going to hike back to our town on the other end. The boat ride was so fun! We saw every town from the water, the water was so blue, and we were able to just enjoy our morning. I will say that while we were on the boat, we were thinking about whether or not we were going to be hiking in the mountains that we were seeing...and we thought definitely not.

When we arrived in Monterosso, we found out that the trail connecting all five towns was closed due to a rockslide. So we improvised and decided to take a 5k hike to the next town - Vernazza - so that we could at least do some hiking and see another town.

Well, what was supposed to be a 3-hour, 3.2 mile hike quickly became a 5-hour, over 5 mile hike. The trail started on a rock path, going straight up! No wonder they estimated a 1.5 mile hike to take 1.5 hours. We had thought that was a little crazy, but it was starting to make more sense. The trail markers were not very obvious, to say the least. So early on in our hike, we took a major detour...and we mean major. We ended up so far out of our way and we even had people following us because they thought we knew where we were going. So after realizing we had obviously made a wrong turn, we backtracked about a mile and realized that about when the trail had started getting easier, we had missed a turn. So back onto the impossibly difficult, rocky, straight uphill trail. Through the woods, up the mountain that we had thought we definitely wouldn't be hiking, we finally arrived at the top.

From the top of this first hike, we then had another hike down to the town where we were ending. Thankfully, this one was mostly downhill. However, it was basically very opposite terrain. We were more or less climbing down rocks and sand, surrounded by cacti, salamanders, and huge bees! I was fine with the salamanders (they were pretty cute), but one time I glanced immediately to my left and the noise I had heard was not a cute salamander but a huge, grayish black snake. That about did it for me. Nick told me later that night that it had actually crossed the path right in front of me...so whoever says wildlife is more afraid of you than you are of them is lying. It was then I realized snakes in the wild were not my thing. I took off, basically at a light jog, trying to get down this trail. We were so ready to not be hiking...we were hungry, dirty, itchy, and legs all cut up from the thorns and cacti our trail was taking us through.

Eventually we did make it up one mountain, across two, and down the last one into the town Vernazza. We went straight to the beach to rinse off, bought our magnet souvenir, local focaccia for a snack (at this point we hadn't eaten real food in 6 hours), and hopped the train back to our town. It just felt so good to be back in civilization. We showered and then headed back to the rocks to watch the sunset (the view from our rock is pictured below). We hung out by the water awhile, resting and reading. After such a long day, we decided to order carry out pizza and eat in our apartment. Yes, we had an apartment for the weekend in the middle of town. It was the perfect end to an exhausting day!


Now we are back on the road to the Pellice Valley to visit OM Italy...four trains and a bus later, here's to hoping for a more relaxing travel day.

Saturday, October 20, 2012

Venice - Canals, Gondolas, & Gelato




After a long and not very restful night train, we arrived to a sunny and warm Venice. We walked out of the train station to the Grand Canal and in front of us was a boating dock for Venice's metro system. Hannah instantly fell in love. Perfect weather, city on the water, and no traffic! Since no cars are allowed in Venice and Venice is an island, all means of transportation are either on foot or by boat. That means the metro, police, fire department, etc. are all boats.

We took a slow boat "cruise" down the canal. It was amazing how many boats and gondolas were on the water and not bumping into one another. We were in awe of how similar Venice looked in person as it does in the movies. The highlight of the ride was going under the Rialto Bridge. After checking in and resting for a little while, we went out for lunch. One quick thing about our hotel room...our window was on a canal so we could watch gondolas go by and hear the singers/musicians on them! It was really cool. Anyway, for lunch we stopped at this little snack bar type place. We didn't have very high expectations but it was quick and easy. We both got pizza and it was amazing!! Wow!

For the rest of the day, we did some sightseeing. We walked over the Rialto Bridge, went to San Zaccaria Church (where the corpse of Zachariah lays, the father of John the Baptist), walked around San Marco square and saw the clock tower that has been ringing since 1499. We also had a delicious glass of Italian wine and beer, as well as a fabulous first dinner in Italy! We had tortellini with cream and ham and gnocchi and it was amazing!


Our second day in Venice we only had a few things we really wanted to do. So we took the day slow and relaxed a bit. We toured St. Mark's Basilica, which was built in the 11th century. It has 4,750 square yards of Byzantine mosaics which are all put together to make a masterpiece of a ceiling. I (Nick) was also lucky enough to get an appointment with Benito at Coiffeur Benito, one of the best barbers in Venice. He went to town on my hair and at the end, I was very happy with the haircut. The only direction that I was able to communicate to him was "short, but not too short." It worked out great and was a lot of fun!

That afternoon we sat on a pier by a canal and played cards for a while. It was so cool being that close to a canal and just hanging out. To make the time even better, I actually beat Hannah! I thought everyone would be proud of me for that :) Since I beat Hannah, I had to buy us gelato...actually alato gelato (Hannah doesn't think it's a very funny joke, but I do!) It was very tasty!

That night for dinner we went to a more "touristy" restaurant. They thought it was acceptable to charge us to pay them to eat. They called it a cover charge or table tax, but we called it bologna! The food wasn't as good as the first night, but it was still pretty good...because it is Italy!

We read about this thing called dueling orchestras in St. Mark's square so after dinner we went to see what they were all about. What happens is three restaurants serve customers on the square and they each hire an orchestra. The restaurants then charge a crazy amount of money (like $20 for a cup of coffee!) for drinks. The orchestras play for hours and don't pay much attention to one another. Instead of sitting down, we just wandered between the three restaurants, watching the orchestras from the back behind the customers sitting down at the restaurants. We thought we had the better deal because not only could we wander, but we could dance also with other people on the square! We had a really fun time!

After a long and stressful travel day, and having to improvise because we missed a very important train, we made it to Riomaggiore! Below is a picture of our view when we got off the train. We are having a great time and taking lots of pictures! We love you and miss you all! Less than a month until we are back in the states!




Thursday, October 18, 2012

Budapest - Many Stories to Tell!




Well, if we needed any good stories from our trip, we now have more than enough from Hungary alone. While nothing in itself was a disaster, we had plenty of moments where we just looked at each other, dumbfounded that something else was going wrong/not as planned.

Saturday we were picked up by an OM-er at the train station and taken to the office, where we would be staying in their guest room. After we dropped our stuff, we went to an end-of-season baseball party. Baseball is a significant part of OM Hungary's ministry. The baseball league here in Hungary is really growing and OM has been able to use it as an avenue in ministry for both youth and adults. We heard that most Hungarian coaching is shame-based...with the coaches essentially yelling and embarrassing kids when they made a mistake. The OM coaches at first received some grief for focusing their coaching on love and encouragement, but now the league is recognizing the strengths of that style and have asked for more Christian coaches. It was really amazing to hear about how it started and how much it has grown!

Back to the party - a traditional Hungarian bacon fat roast. Yes, we roasted bacon fat, just the fat, no real meat involved. What happens is you get your slab of fat on a stick and roast it like a marshmallow. As it is cooking, you are spreading the fat drippings onto your bread (wouldn't want any of the fat to go to waste). Then when it is fully roasted, you take a small bite of fat...followed by a big bite of bread with the melted bacon fat, and then finished with a bite of onion. The couple who showed us the ropes said that the bread was to help with digestion, but they didn't know why the onion finished the combination. I was proud of us for handling it so well in the moment, as it led to great conversations with the Hungarians around us. But later that night, maybe not so proud of how gross we felt.

Sunday was a bit of a slow day. We went to a Hungarian church, but they had a guest preacher who spoke in English. We were hosted for a delicious lunch by an American family who has been in Hungary for over 20 years. It was great to pick their brains on the ups and downs, but then just enjoy the company and being in someone's home. They invited us back for games later that night, but never mentioned any time or details. So around 7ish, we decided it was "later that night" and ventured over there...the whole walk contemplating all the awkward situations we could enter into when we arrived. Thankfully, it all worked out and it was a good decision to put ourselves out there a bit!

Monday we woke up at the crack of dawn for English lessons. While it was hard pulling ourselves out of bed, it was definitely worth it! We were able to talk with Hungarians as they were learning to speak English. We felt so welcomed into their culture and their country. After the English lessons, we had a meeting with the director of OM Hungary so we were able to hear about all their different ministries, needs they had, and visions for both the present and the future.

Monday afternoon we decided to make our trek into the third district of Budapest, in search of Nick's great-grandparents old home. Just a little background, they immigrated to the USA in the 1920s and the scan with their personal information is very faint and hard to read. That said, we learned that the real address (or what we can barely read) does not actually exist anymore. Either the apartment building was torn down, the district lines were redrawn, or the road name had simply changed. In any case, we found the only road name that was remotely similar in District III and headed that way. After a 45 minute train ride, a metro ride, tram ride, and maybe 2.5 mile walk, here is where we were...


Yeah, didn't look like there are any apartment buildings in a mile radius of where we were. But maybe it was a house broken into apartments, so we kept walking, determined to find this address. Well, we found the street after lots of gravel road in the middle of fields and nowhere. We took pictures of the street sign (pictured below) and then headed up the road to see if we could find a house number (we were looking for #23). Please realize that we are in a very desolate, isolated area, where no tourist ever sets foot. Everyone knows everyone, so we are sticking out like a sore thumb and pretty uncomfortable. On top of all this, as we walked, we set off every dog in the neighborhood. We had maybe 6 dogs howling at us and their owners coming out to see what was happening. About three houses up, we realized there were no house numbers posted, so we decided we did our best and that we needed to leave. So we didn't find the house, not sure if we even found the street (probably not), but we had a lovely walk through their area of town at least!



As we walked miles to catch the tram, rode the tram, the metro, and finally the train, we both felt tired and as if we couldn't handle much more in the day. But then we managed to miss our train stop on the way home. We then proceeded to go fifteen minutes past where we needed to be, only to have to wait another hour for a train to come to the stop where we were stranded and take us back the other way. All of this wouldn't have been so bad, but we needed to be somewhere at six for dinner. So as we stepped off the train at the right stop, our watch beeped that it was 6 o'clock. We then walked as fast as we have ever walked for about 1.5 more miles so that we were only 20 minutes late for dinner - which is acceptable in Hungarian culture. Needless to say, our feet were dying by the end of the day.

Tuesday...oh Tuesday. We left the office for the train station the first time around 10 AM. We heard the rain, but didn't realize how bad it was. We barely got to the outside gate before we decided that this 2 mile walk to the train station wasn't going to happen then. Really bummed, we decided to wait and see if it would stop or slow down. While we waited, Nick emailed our hotel in Venice to see if we could drop off our bags before check-in since we were arriving at 8:30 AM. Harmless question, one we didn't need to ask, but so glad he did! We got an extremely rude reply, accusing us of lying to him about having a reservation. We forwarded the reservation emails we had, with our payment information, and confirmation of the dates, and the hotel management replied that we DID NOT have a reservation and that we falsified the email to make it look like we did. He was actually yelling at us over email...

So we spent the morning looking for more hotels, but everything we found was unavailable or really expensive. We took a break and decided to try walking to the train station again. We got down the road and around the corner (much further than the first time, but still not even an eighth of the walk) before we ducked into a bakery, soaked and freezing. Exhausted from one bad thing leading to another, we ate pastries and drank cherry coke and a cappuccino for a little break. We decided we would go back to the office and try to make the best of a rainy day, but when we left the rain was really soft and slow so we made a dash for the station.

We were thankful for the break, it lasted just long enough to put some smiles back on our faces and talk through some things so we were on the same page. But it didn't last much longer than that. When we arrived at the train station, the ticket lady would not give us tickets to go into Budapest. I think she was just talking, but when someone is raising their voice at you in another language, it is hard not to think you are being yelled at for something you don't know. Another lady walked up and I asked if she spoke English and could translate for us. She was sweet and very helpful in terms of tickets, but as far as why we couldn't get train tickets, all we know is that she kept saying "bomba" and making the motion for a phone call. We are thinking maybe a bomb threat? So in any case, the station wasn't running to Budapest. But this sweet lady told us she would drive us to the bus station. Our first car ride with a stranger...and it went very well. We weren't about to decline help at this point. She even parked and went into the bus station with us, bought us tickets, and put us on the right bus before she left. Hungarian hospitality at its best!

Still wet and cold, we got on the bus to finally head downtown. I will spare you the long details of the next probably 2-3 hours of our life. Basically, every bus we needed drove away right as we would arrive so we missed every bus we needed by a hair. Every time we were under cover it would not be raining so we would get hopeful and go outside to continue touring and the rain would start falling all over again. Our map was soaked, we were miserably lost in the rain, and no one had heard of the place we were trying to find.

Eventually, we did arrive at New York Cafe...one of the fanciest coffee shops in the world! It was absolutely gorgeous inside, extremely flashy, with Romanesque pillars, gold and crystal chandeliers etc. We splurged on some amazing coffee with ice cream - Nick's newest discovery and why he now encourages us to stop for coffee breaks once or twice a day. With the little pick-me-up, we finally got on the right bus, found the covered market, and did a little shopping.

That night we were on an open-top bus and drove from Pest to Buda and saw the whole city lit up in all its wonder...definitely one of the most beautiful cities at night. I think it was that moment, still freezing because the wind was whipping us and we were still damp, that we saw the treasure of Budapest. While it seems unimportant and out of the way, it is definitely worth the trip!

Wednesday (or today) we woke up, packed, and headed back into the city to do some sightseeing in good weather! We walked around the castle district with the most beautiful castle we have seen in Europe so far! We saw some amazing views of the city too...all for free. Funny how Budapest has several free sites, but then you have to pay $1.50 to use the bathroom.

We did a hop on, hop off bus tour so that we could see as much as possible in the 8 hours we had. Parliament was beautiful and made London's parliament building look almost plain...didn't expect that one. St. Stephen's Basilica was also gorgeous, with a dome that stood 96 meters high! We ended in Heroes Square and the City Park. Heroes Square was built for Hungary's 1,000th anniversary and is full of statues of their kings and other heroes. Then we ventured into the park and the Szchenyi Baths. These are old Roman baths, built on thermal springs. The water was 38 degrees Celsius, so I think about 108 degrees Fahrenheit. It felt wonderful after the long days we had been having. We spent about an hour enjoying the naturally hot water.

From there, we booked it to the train station, ate a delicious Hungarian dinner, and jumped on our night train to Venice (where we now have a different hotel reservation, phew). This night train connects at 1:30 AM, so it will not be quite as restful...but at least we have Italy to look forward to and enjoy!

Saturday, October 13, 2012

Vienna - City of the Arts




After a wonderful time in Prague, we arrived in Vienna not really knowing what to expect. People have spoke very highly of the city so we stopped here for a few days. And we are so glad that we did!

We arrived on Wednesday and got to our small, family-run hotel, but big rooms (pictured below). The hotel was about a 10-minute walk from downtown Vienna. Our first day there, we did a self-guided walking tour of the city. We saw the State Opera House (one of the premier houses of music), St. Stephan's Cathedral (with 450-foot towers, it is considered to be the needle around which Vienna spins), and Loos' Loos (restrooms that were fancy enough to host poetry readings while you do your business).

We also got to Skype with my brother, Jake. Shout out to Jake! Congrats on picking a major!

On Thursday we woke up early because we had a goal in mind...get tickets to see the opera. We got breakfast and headed back down to the State Opera House, only to be told that the opera for that night was sold out. However, there were still standing room tickets available that went on sale 80 minutes before the show started. So we decided to return for that! We are used to standing for absurdly long periods of time!

After leaving ticketless, we went to the Dorotheum, a gigantic, four floor auction house. They were auctioning/selling everything from furniture to paintings to jewelry. It was all very expensive and very nice! All things we could only dream of having. Next we went to the Imperial Treasury at the Hofburg Palace in downtown Vienna. This is a 21 room collection of crowns, jewels, royal robes, and more. Some of the highlights were the crown of the Holy Roman Emperor, Charlemagne's saber, an eight-foot tall 500-year old unicorn horn, and a 23-pound gold basin and pitcher used to baptize noble children.

Also, we saw what some people believe to be the cross on which Jesus was crucified and the Holy Lance used to pierce his side. We also saw fragments of Jesus' manger, a piece of Christ's loincloth, and a shred of the Last Supper tablecloth. Finally, we saw John the Baptist's tooth...that was kind of gross. (All of these claims aren't fully accepted as true.)

Next, we went to the Haus der Musik, a three floor interactive museum. It was a really cool experience. The first floor was all about the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. On the second floor, we learned all about the nature of sound and music by doing different experiments. The third floor went through the history of famous Viennese conductors such as Mozart, Beethoven, and Strauss. Finally, and definitely the highlight, was the chance to conduct the Vienna Philharmonic virtually. I had no idea that Hannah was a natural conductor! The crowd was cheering for an encore after her performance. It was a great preview of the night to come.

After a delicious Viennese dinner, we headed over to the Opera House to get in line for standing room tickets! We were so early that not only did we get tickets for a sold-out show, we were front and center of the standing room area. Yes, we stood for the entire 3.5 hours (after walking probably 5 miles already that day). But it was definitely worth it! The Opera House was gorgeous and the performance "Don Giovanni" was wonderful!

The other people in the standing room, though, were maybe not so wonderful. I have never been so closely surrounded by so many internationals using what broken English they had to yell and fight with each other. Asian ladies were ramming me (Hannah), trying to get into spots I was holding for us while Nick was checking our bag. One lady behind us kept chewing out the man for moving her scarf (tied to the railing to mark her spot). She was convinced he was trying to get rid of her so he could have more room. In reality, the people who were sliding behind us managed to catch her scarf every time and move it down the railing with them. Haha, it was entertaining to say the least. We used all of our skills - from Cairo and USC football games - for navigating the crowds and boxing out to hold our spots. So all in all, it was a wonderful time!

Friday we had a slow morning and then made our way to Schonbrunn Palace, the Habsburg's summer home. This is the only palace in Europe to rival Versailles. It has 1,441 rooms! But we only got to see 40 of them. The palace is not as gaudy as Versailles, so it feels more like a home. Some of the rooms that we saw were definitely built up and extremely fancy (such as the Great Gallery, which was the site of a famous summit between John F. Kennedy and Nikita Khrushchev). Another highlight was the mirrored room, where six-year-old Mozart performed his first concert. We also spent time walking around the palace gardens. They seemed to go on forever! It was amazing imagining what it would have been like to attend an event in the palace gardens.

Friday night we got to Skype with the Giles family. It was great to catch up with Jake and Bethany, see Cason running around, with Judah and Jonas walking close behind. And then we got to talk to Mike and Steph for a little while before the connection was lost. We loved hearing about how they are settling in and enjoying Lebanon.

Now we are off to Budapest and on a journey to find my great grandparents house!





Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Prague - Cafes, Clocks, & Crystal




Prague...where to even begin. This city contained many unexpected charms. It is considered to be the "Gateway to Eastern Europe" - this means it was cheaper and a bit more dirty, but full of unique architecture, old buildings, cafes, and live music! Prague also seems to be a center for selling crystal. Not sure why exactly, but walking through their stores of crystal chandeliers and glass art left us in awe (and made me want to buy it and ship it all home :)).

We didn't have much of a plan for Prague, which turned out to be a nice change. We knew where we were staying - on the gorgeous boat MS Florentina. It was a great location, close to lots of the sites and liveliness of the city, and came with a delicious buffet breakfast. Nick planned all of our housing situations and they have all been extremely successful! We have stayed in a hostel, a hotel, a castle, on a train, houses, apartments, and now a boat.

But beyond housing, we only had a general idea of what the city was like. Prague was situated on both sides of the river, with the castle and Little Quarter on one side and the Old and New Town Squares on the other side. The first day we crossed the Charles Bridge, a pedestrian bridge full of statues, vendors, and musicians. We walked through the Little Quarter to do some shopping and eat lunch and then stopped on Kampa Island to walk through the park and enjoy some local Czech snacks, similar to doughnuts and fries/chips. We chose not to tour the castle even though it is possibly the largest in the world...or maybe because it could be the largest in the world. It seemed huge and was a combination of 5 or so individual castles, just a little overwhelming and not what we wanted to spend 10 hours doing.

That night we grabbed dinner in the Old Town Square and listened to these amazing drummers entertaining quite a crowd. We headed "home" for an early night and were able to Skype with Nick's parents...so nice to see some familiar faces!

Tuesday we started off in the Jewish Quarter. Little did we know that it was a Jewish holiday so all the sites were closed. We were still able to walk around and read about the synagogues, though, so that was nice. One of the synagogues is the most historic in the country and only exists today because Hitler planned to make it a "Museum of the Extinct Jewish Race"...along with lots of Jewish treasures that are now on display in the museums.

The rest of the day we just walked around the city, saw the Astronomical Clock (pictured above) change at the hour, listened to some great musicians, sat in cafes and played cards. All in all, a very great day!

At night, we went to a black light theater show - very unique to Prague. The show was a combination of pantomime and dance under black light. Basically, the actors had a series of pantomime acts. In between these acts, dancers performed modern dance in costumes that lit up under black light to create a sort of optical illusion. Hard to describe, but really cool to see and experience.

Now we are headed to Vienna, Austria. We are really excited about this stop because it has been so highly recommended from lots of people! We miss everyone and can't wait to be in better touch!

Below are some pictures from the window in our room on the water...in case you didn't get to see them in Facebook.






Monday, October 8, 2012

Switzerland - Fondue, Wine Tastings, & Wonderful Hosts




While we expected Switzerland to be our coldest stop, we arrived to beautiful, warm weather...who would've planned that! Well, our extraordinary host, Natalie, said that she ordered it just for us! Natalie is a good friend of Hannah's from Cairo. They knew each other in high school and haven't seen each other in six years.

Natalie was waiting at the train station when we arrived and whisked us back to her apartment (some of you might have seen the view, Hannah posted a picture on Facebook but here it is again). For the next four days, Natalie fed us "Egypt style." No, not Egyptian food (it was mostly Greek). But she fed us and fed us and fed us....and then fed us some more! It was nice for Nick to experience a little taste of Egypt. :) She also treated us to almost everything and made our stay extremely comfortable.

Our first day there, was the perfect day to relax. Natalie had to work so we slept in and took it easy for the first time in five weeks! It was amazing! We watched TV, walked by the lake, walked around town, and watched more TV. It was a great start to Switzerland. While we were relaxing, Natalie was getting promoted - congratulations, Natalie!

Friday night we met Natalie's fiancée, Vassilis. He is Greek but came from Zurich to spend the weekend with us (and Natalie of course). It was great to meet him, get to know him, hear about how they met, and their future plans. Friday night they took us to an amazing restaurant seated on a cliff overlooking the lake and the Alps for drinks - where they had their first date (no wonder Natalie stuck with him). The sun was setting over the crystal clear water...it was spectacular! After, we went to a delicious Italian restaurant in Vevey and ordered huge pizzas and calzones.

At dinner, we learned all sorts of things about Switzerland. We learned that anyone can create change...they just need a petition and a certain amount of signatures and then their petition will be voted on by the whole country. Recently, there was a national vote to increase the number of vacation days from four weeks to six weeks - the people voted no! They thought it would be bad for the economy. The people also voted no to lowering taxes and making it illegal to smoke indoors. The government in Switzerland really believes that the people will vote whatever way is best for the country, not just best for themselves.

On Saturday, we took a nice drive in the hills of Switzerland to a castle/vineyard. We toured the castle and were told that we could spend the night...for only 400-500 CFK (about the same in $) per night. Maybe next trip! Next we sampled wine made from the vineyard surrounding the castle. All of the wine samples also came with specific food samples. It was interesting how the food really did bring out the taste of the wine.

Next we drove to Geneva and walked through a water jet that shot water 100 meters up in the air, ate Movenpick ice cream (one of Hannah's childhood favorites), drank coffee in the old city, saw Christina's new house, and had Swiss cheese fondue! It was a very fun and full day.

On Sunday, we had a big brunch together and then toured Chateau de Chillon (Switzerland's 2nd most toured site, according to Natalie). Chateau de Chillon is a castle right on the lake and we were able to walk all around it. We saw prisons, tortures room, lookout rooms, bedrooms, bathrooms (and where all the waste fell).

By Sunday night, we were feeling sort of homesick. So we gave in and had Burger King for dinner, since it was a travel day/night and we were wanting a taste of home. The prices are far from the ones at home though...$14 for a chicken sandwich meal! Absolutely crazy...And we had to wait quite awhile for our food, so not considered fast food in our minds.


Now we are taking a night-train from Switzerland to Prague, Czech Republic. It is the longest train ride of our trip - 13 hours. Hopefully we get some sleep tonight in these rock solid beds!



Thursday, October 4, 2012

Germany - The Land of Castles, Vineyards, & Oktoberfest




We arrived in Bonn, Germany last Thursday (sorry it has been so long since an update, we were without Internet the last few days). We stayed with the Capps family for the weekend and also were able to spend lots of time with John. Kelly and Erin are close family friends and also youth leaders from Egypt. Since seeing them last, they have had two wonderful kids - Maren and Elias (4 & almost 2). It was so great to catch up with them, hear about life in the German culture, their work in the international church, and as parents of two energetic kids! It was so fun to play with the kids...Maren dominates at Crazy Eights and Elias loves to line things up (reminding us of Cason always parking his cars). John was a good friend from high school in Egypt and I lived with his family for awhile, so it was good to catch up with him as well.

During our time there, we were able to meet a mix of their friends. It was interesting to be back in an international group of friends, where everyone relates a bit different because everyone is from a different culture. You don't always know if you are offending someone and you don't always understand the sense of humor - but it still manages to work well and can generate some very deep, lifelong friends.

We spent one afternoon biking on the Rhine and playing on the playground. Again, it felt great to just hang out and play! We saw hot air balloons fill up and lift off in the park, fed fish, and stuffed the kids pockets with all the chestnuts that were beginning to fall. One day we went for a walk through the vineyards and saw a different side of Germany, filled with little towns nestled in the valleys. It was remote, but very beautiful. The rest of our time was spent playing games, sipping coffee, and sharing about our life!


From Bonn, we took a train to Moselkern, Germany. We knew the train station was an unmanned station, but we didn't realize just how secluded we would feel! We hiked a beautiful trail from the town, along a stream and surrounded by trees with their leaves starting to turn colors. After about 5k, we arrived at Burg Eltz, the castle pictured above. It is one of the largest and best preserved castles, I think from the 1200s. We toured the castle, heard about the families who built it, saw tons of armor and weaponry, and learned that staircases were built to wind counter-clockwise so that knights protecting the castle would always have an advantage on those attacking the castle, as all knights at this time were right-handed.

We hiked another 5k down and caught a train to St. Goar - a small town on the Rhine. We stayed in a beautiful hotel, right on the river. To walk from one end of the town to the other, only took about ten minutes! We really enjoyed being in a tiny place, it was a nice break from the big, overwhelming cities we have been in the last few weeks. We saw the world's biggest beer stein, beer steins worth over $2,000, giant cuckoo clocks, and Rheinfels Castle.

Then we took an hour boat ride down the Rhine River to another town called Bacharach. On our boat ride, we saw tons of castles built up around the river, where rulers used to demand taxes from merchant ships before letting them pass. We arrived in Bacharach and I instantly loved the town! It is known for its wine, so all of the hillsides around it are covered in vineyards, and the town itself is full of wine gardens...basically gardens covered in vines, where you can sample the local wines.

We stayed in our first and last youth hostel in this town, but it wasn't just any hostel - because it was a hostel in the town's castle! It was so cool to get to walk around the castle, stay in it, appreciate the beautiful views from every angle! The only downside - we had to climb the mountain (over 350 steps and steep hills) with our backpacks. We pretty much spent the whole hike laughing at ourselves, trying to balance going up steep hills while our backpacks were pulling us backward. It was definitely worth the hike, but probably not something we will do again.

After a few relaxing days in the seclusion of wine country, we flipped the switch and went to Oktoberfest...quite the opposite experience in every imaginable way. Think about a state fair, the SC State Fair comes to my mind, and multiply it by 10 in terms of people, rides, vendors, and more people! Then, add in 14 massive (and I mean massive) tents, filled with thousands of people...and you will have a pretty good picture of what Oktoberfest is like. You sit at long tables, squished on either side and then sitting back-to-back with someone you don't know. Everyone wants to share food, talk, sing, dance, and then "prost" (or toast) each other. So needless to say, we met some interesting people...some wanting to talk US politics, which we strategically avoided, and others just wanting us to partake in all of their traditional fun!

Now we are on the train to Switzerland, going through the Alps...so we are going to get off here and enjoy the scenery! Love to everyone!

Thursday, September 27, 2012

Holland - From Wassenaar, Den Haag, Amsterdam, to Haarlem




When we started to plan our trip to the Netherlands, we had no idea how much of the country we would actually get to see. We arrived in Rotterdam, where Marjolijn picked us up in her brand new car (a rare privilege in bicycle country). Marjolijn is a long-time friend from Egypt; we overlapped in Egypt our 7th and 8th grade years, but have also managed to see each other in South Africa, UAE, and Holland on a few occasions. It was weird to realize how long it has been since last seeing each other (over 6 years) and how easily it can feel so normal again.

She took us to Wassenaar, where her parents now own a gorgeous house. They live in a beautiful area, on the coast and near the royal family. We spent the weekend there with her family - they were the perfect host! We ate delicious food, did laundry, and even had our own guesthouse. We spent most of our time in the kitchen, catching up on life, playing cards, and drinking lots of tea and coffee. It was wonderful to meet Marjolijn's boyfriend, hear about her/their time with the Navigators, her new job, and her future plans.

We also spent a day in The Haag with Stephanie and Justine - more friends from Egypt! So weird to see your friends' younger siblings grow up and go to college. Friends age with you but friends siblings growing up can sometimes make you feel old. :) But it was wonderful to sit around and talk about Egypt (old and new), work, transitioning to your "home" culture, and marriage. We also got an excellent guided tour of the city, saw the international court of justice and learned why The Haag is a small, but important city.

We spent the early part of the week in Amsterdam, slowing down a bit and catching up on sleep. It may have been the second-hand smoke, but more likely the rainy day that forced us to stay in and relax more (our first rainy day yet). We visited the Anne Frank House, walked through the flower market, sampled amazing cheeses at the local cheese store, shopped in the open-air market, went on a canal cruise, and ate pancakes/waffles every chance we had!

We also took a day trip to Haarlem, a small town near the coast. We saw our first stereotypical Dutch windmill and the Corrie Ten Boom house, hiding place, and jeweler. Nick enjoyed one of the most common Dutch snacks - french fries with mayonnaise. I know we live in the States, but we can't help but think we were made for the food over here (especially Nick)! We sat in cafes, played cards, drank coffee, and enjoyed our time immensely.

Now we are headed to Germany to spend some time with Kelly and Erin, youth leaders from Egypt, and John, a high school friend.



P.S. We miss all of you and are thinking and dreaming about the next times we can see everyone!

Monday, September 24, 2012

Paris - Crepes & Croissants




Our time in Paris was spent mostly with the OM office. We stayed at their office in Pontault-Combault, a suburb of Paris. We really enjoyed the few days that we got to spend learning about OM France's office, team and ministries. We even got to experience and serve in some of the ministries.

On various occasions, we were able to help the OMers pass out tracts in the local market, pass out invitations to a French language class, actually attend the French class, and serve at a soup kitchen. Seeing the ministries first hand reminded us of the importance of knowing the local language. It also showed us how we don't need to be overseas to serve other nationalities, as there are immigrant populations everywhere (most of these ministries targeted immigrants to France).

The OM team was extremely welcoming! We loved getting to know the various members, learning about how they arrived in France, and what they do there. We were invited to two, delicious dinners - home cooked food has probably never tasted so good! In both cases and in other interactions throughout the week, we both felt very encouraged about our future. We were prayed for on several occasions and then also given some very practical advice in making decisions for our future...in terms of language barriers, cultural differences, etc.

As for Paris, we definitely enjoyed the food and sites (or should this be spelled "sights", any opinions?) it had to offer. We walked the Champs-Élysées from start to finish. We saw the Arc de Triomphe, walked into a Mercedes showroom to see a 2 million Euro car, and ended in the Tuileries Gardens. We went to Sacre Coeur for one of the best views of the city and spent some time in the art district of Montmartre. We toured Notre Dame and spent lots of time eating crepes in the Latin Quarter.

The second day was definitely the most full of any sightseeing day we have had! We started in Versailles, the 3rd largest palace in Europe, with really beautiful gardens outside of Paris. It was a gorgeous day out so we spent lots of time walking around the gardens and taking lots of pictures. We were amazed by how big the chateau was with a room for everything - from a royal make out room to a room for getting dressed (bigger than any bedroom we have seen).

We climbed the stairs of the Eiffel Tower, walked around the Egyptian exhibits in the Louvre, saw the Mona Lisa, and then went back and saw the three main monuments lit up at night. We were exhausted by the end of the day, but so happy that we saw everything. Being on the Eiffel Tower was our favorite part. It was amazing standing on this landmark that we had heard about our whole lives. I (Nick) can now say I have climbed the Eiffel Tower!

After a fun time in Paris, we are off to Holland!

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Oxford - Rest, Refreshment, and Harry Potter




After a very encouraging time in Birmingham, we arrived in Oxford to spend the weekend with Hannah's parents. Hannah's dad, Mike, is working on his PhD at the Oxford Center for Mission Studies. It was great to reverse roles with the parents and get to see where he studied and researched. It was easy to tell why he chose to do research at Oxford. The buildings, both on the inside and outside, were just amazing. Our eyes were constantly looking up at the decorations and architecture.

Mike and Steph were fabulous hosts! They showed us an amazing time in Oxford. We toured 3 different colleges - Christ Church College, New College, and Magdelen College. The colleges were spectacular. It is hard to describe how beautiful the buildings and land were around the schools. Oxford has 38 different colleges and each college has its own chapel, eating hall, dorms, and classrooms.

On Saturday afternoon, we decided to try out punting. For those of you who don't know, punting is an English activity that involves pushing a small wooden boat along with a very tall, metal pole. One person stands up in the back off the boat and pushes off the bottom of the canal and the boat hopefully glides along in the direction that you want it to go. Man, was that a stressful experience! Mike did an amazing job leading us around...and we eventually got the hang of it! But I think we probably hit every other boat, tree, wall, and animal on the water. We did succeed in our goal, however, which was to not flip the boat!

Another highlight of our time in Oxford was getting dinner at The Eagle and Child. This is the pub that C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien hung out at every Tuesday morning for over 20 years and discussed the books they were writing such as The Narnia Series and The Lord of the Rings Trilogy (no big deal).

However, everyone's favorite part of the weekend was definitely the amazing Harry Potter tour! We saw the hospital wing of Hogwarts, the room where Professor McGonagall teaches the students how to dance before the Yule Ball, the library for the first two movies, the top of the great stairs where McGonagall welcomes new students and the bottom of the stairs where Harry and Ron are caught arriving late, the hallways that appeared in the 4th movie, and the big tree that Malfoy was under when he got turned into a ferret. But the best part was seeing the Great Hall (pictured above) that was actually used in the first movie. A replica was rebuilt one and a half times larger for the following movies!

We had a great time in Oxford. It was great to see family and get some rest. Now, on to Paris!

P.S. - We must mention that Mike won hearts twice and he shot the moon to win the game with a grand slam! Good job, Mike!

Monday, September 17, 2012

Birmingham: Learning about OM Lifehope




After our time in London, we spent about 24 hours in the suburbs of Birmingham, England. We visited an OM Training Centre (note the British spelling) called Lifehope OM. Though our time was short, it was far from wasted! We felt very encouraged the entire time we were there, from the staff individually and by the organization as a whole.

We spent most of our time getting to know staff members' stories - how they heard of OM, made the decision to join, and logistically got themselves to England. All the stories spoke of God's grace and faithfulness throughout the process. It was really fun for us to hear how God was in control of each unique story, no matter where they were from or how they had struggled.

While getting to know the staff, we were given a great picture of OM's vision as a mission organization. We loved hearing that their goal is to keep their focus on the bigger picture. This means not getting hung up on the minor details, personality differences, etc. that can sometimes put a hold on real ministry. Along with this bigger picture, they really emphasized the importance of the church. So a lot of the ministries they were maintaining partnered with a church so that there would be consistency in a community. This was really encouraging for us to see...that they didn't believe they were sufficient but that they wanted to foster church growth.

Another thing we loved was that they really made an effort to help each person realize their gifts and passion, and then help them plug in where they fit best. This model of ministry seems to have generated a lot of growth in the center as each person gets to grow in their strengths rather than fight to fit into a job position with structured requirements.

There were tons of gifts and passions from each different staff member, as we saw from the variety of ministries they have coming out of Lifehope! They had ministry teams for everything from Muslim ministry, kids, sports, dance, youth, Polish, and so much more. You found that some people worked part-time in logistical things, like finances, personnel, etc. and part-time in field ministries like dance, kids, youth, etc. It was awesome to see that you could create your job and be involved in completely different areas, as long as you were using your gifts.

Last thing, we had an amazing conversation with a woman named Atonya. She gave us some wonderful advice - to have passion and to be ready to serve in that. Seeing how often our generation feels entitled to what they receive, we forget that there is something worth fighting for and serving in...no matter the cost to ourselves.